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RIO Outbound Short vs. Regular

13K views 34 replies 18 participants last post by  Viper97 
#1 ·
Time for me to upgrade to RIO Outbound. My Cortland Clear Camo is driving me crazy. I thought getting a super nice striping basket would solve the tangled running lines, but alas. That line is gummier than a Swedish Fish left in a hot car. I know fly lines have been discussed many times before, and I know the RIO Outbound lines has it's fans, and those who think it's over rated. But I have a very specific question that I didn't see addressed in the archives.

Was doing some research and it looks like the Outbound Regular doesn't have a full intermediate version. Rather it integrates a 37.5' of intermediate with a floating running line. The Short also has a float/intermediate integrated version, but also has a full intermediate model with a 30' head. Given I'm almost always going to fish this line with a stripping basket, I'm partial to the full intermediate to avoid the "bend" that results from the junction of the floating and intermediate lines while in the water. Both lines have clear heads which is pretty cool. Curious on your thoughts as to whether there are any other important distinctions I should be thinking about between the Regular and Short Outbounds.
 
#2 ·
I own the clear intermediate short line and it is nice but I recently cast the long version of this line with the floater running line and clear head. I liked it also, and for different reasons.

The head on the short is so compact it always takes a while for me to get use to it. It is good for the intended use. Minimal false casts. Just a short cast to get the head out of the water and load it, then ideally, one false cast and you are fishing. I am a slop at casting and I have not figured out how to cast this line beyond 70' or so. I have the head out (35' I think) and I understand that is the time to make your forward cast. Well, I never shoot more than another 30-40 feet. I have not measured, but there is always line turns left on my spool.

The OB Long line felt much more comfortable to cast for the short period I used it. I would prefer the intermediate running line over the floating. Although the floating was nice to handle.

I recall casting a SA intermediate line once. It was not clear but a milky color if I remember correct. It was easy to cast but then again this was on a Winston rod. I think this was marketed as a Striper line. Worth consideration. I think it may have had a slower sink rate also.

My Outbound is a bit fast sinking for shallow flats but awesome when I fish from a boat.

All this said & I am sure another member will clear up or correct my ramblings.
 
#3 ·
Been fishing an outbound intermediate with floating running line this year for my 8wt. I actually intended to buy an outbound short--I stopped at avid angler, asked for an outbound short, bought it, spooled it up, fished it, then looked a little closer at the box weeks later and discovered it was just the outbound. However, I've loved it--I find that it loads fast and when I'm in a groove, I can get the line out with 2-3 false casts. As for the integrated intermediate/floating, I couldn't imagine using a full intermediate line from the beach, especially during lower tides or shallower water. It's pretty routine to be close to bottom when the line gets 20' or so away--I think if your full cast was sinking that would happen a lot sooner and would snag on the bottom all the time. Would love to hear other thoughts on this. Have not noticed the "bend" thing you mentioned at the junction as well. Just picked up a short for my 6wt which I plan to use tomorrow--interested to see if I feel a major difference.
 
#5 ·
I have the short on my 6 weight in both full floater and floating with 15' integrated intermediate tip. I throw a 7' intermediate poly leader on both. The tip version gets down quick enough, that's 22' of intermediate line, makes the full intermediate kind of unnecessary, and I have the option of throwing a faster sinking poly on it if I'm fishing a deeper section of beach. I've noticed no hinging at the floating/intermediate junction. I've cast the older, longer outbound on other rods. The longer outbound casts more like a flyline whereas the short is a shooting head and needs to be treated as such.
 
#7 ·
Great stuff guys. I already fish the RIO Outbound Regular 6wt float line for my primary SRC line and love it. You've made me feel better about not worrying about the float/intermediate version for my 8wt. RIO Outbound Regular sounds the way to go. I'll be targeting Coho mostly with this line, so I'll be stripping fast, which will also minimize any bend in the line. I've forgotten my stripping basket before and hope to never make that mistake again. One particular day, I lost two beautiful fish as they turned my slack line into a tangled mess of spaghetti. Tromping and tripping over my line didn't help either. If there's any virtue to my Cortland Camo Clear Intermediate is that it never broke after countless mashing on barnacle and oyster covered beaches.
 
#11 ·
I believe the Outbound has a monofilament core, which is difficult to weld with out weakening the core. Make your own loop by doubling your line and securing with a nail knot or two . Coat with UV glue to secure it and create a taper so it goes through your guides smoothly.
 
#9 ·
I don't know about the outbound but I have used the SA Mastery Streamer Express Intermediate Clear Tip for several years now. It's a 30' clear tip with an intermediate running line; this is my go to line for sure. Before that I used the full intermediate and hated it because of it was too sticky and felt I didn't have enough control when fishing. The Streamer Express will cast itself if you let it and virtually no tangles. I will admit I primarily fish from a boat and usually no deeper than 15' of water.
As for welding a loop in the running line it seems to me you would want an integrated running line, the loop will only hinder your retrieve as its pulled through your guides.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I don't know about the outbound but I have used the SA Mastery Streamer Express Intermediate Clear Tip for several years now. It's a 30' clear tip with an intermediate running line; this is my go to line for sure. The Streamer Express will cast itself if you let it and virtually no tangles.
Really? I'd like to meet your line.

Mine is the same SA line & the running line tangles to beat the band. It did better streamer fishing Montana trout due to the warm air temperature 75-90 degrees I'm thinking. Puget sound in Fall/Spring with our cold saltwater & lower air temps make it a tough handling line IMO. That 250 grain head shoots well on my salty 6, have to admit that.

Anil said you have to keep stretching out the running line, yuck.

c/22
 
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#14 ·
I believe the Outbound has a monofilament core, which is difficult to weld with out weakening the core. Make your own loop by doubling your line and securing with a nail knot or two . Coat with UV glue to secure it and create a taper so it goes through your guides smoothly.
I would love to see a picture of this if you have one
 
#18 ·
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I grabbed these at random. The line on the right and the floater were done with backing, the others with fluoro. The backing is easier to use, as it has less memory. It's simple to tie using a nail knot tool, get one at your local shop and ask them to show how to make the loop. If they don't use that system, go to PSFlyCo. They showed me to use the tool rather than a chunk of tubing. As you can see, I favor a longer loop, as I've found it closes down and lies flatter, but you'll find more guys prefer a small loop.

I also use a loop to loop to attach lines to backing, just make a loop in the backing long enough to fit over your spool, and put a loop at the back end of the line. On a small (trout sized) line one knot is enough, with 4-5 wraps. For big stuff, I'll go to two knots with 6 wraps, glue the space in the middle together with zap a gap, then cover with UV knot material. Obviously, you need a loop in the backing, either a bimini, or go back to your nail knot tool, double line and 2 knots for heavy weight use.

Again, you might want to find someone who does this often to walk you through it.
 
#19 ·
Thanks for this--very helpful, and I'll give it a shot. Another question that I'm sure someone can help with: I'm going to retire my 6wt rio versitip line. The running line is pretty beat up and I can't say I love the way it casts. I'm thinking about going to a full floater (perhaps the rio steelhead/salmon line) then using polyleaders (fishing single handed). Can I use the versitip tips as my sink tips or is the 15' too long or have the wrong profile? Or, could they be cut shorter and rigged with the loops described by Don. Just thinking of ways to save money because the tips are in really good shape--anyone used these in any way beyond their intended use?
 
#23 ·
Are you talking about the Outbound Short floating/intermediate? If so I have one that I'm not really liking. I do not feel that I'm in good contact with my fly. I feel that with the wind/currents the floating line can get a bow in it and I feel the hit but can't move enough line to get a good hook set, and I try and remove the slivers lip when I strip set.
 
#25 ·
The outbound short floating is a super sweet line for streamer fishing in rivers, and most people probably find it easier to cast off the beach if they are not very experienced casters. I prefer the short when fishing big meaty patterns for bullies and browns in rivers. The intermediate tip can be an issue if you are fishing SUPER weedy beaches because the line "probes" a little more than the full length outbound as opposed to tracking in a straight line. George Cook pointed out to me that a good caster can launch the full length outbound farther than a short, and in the hands of a good caster that might make a difference in your selection. I find the full length line more fun to cast than the short, but the short can turn over larger flies easier.

This is probably obvious to most people, but the full intermediate lines tend to hang up more on shallow beaches although probably fish a little better out of a boat/kayak.
 
#26 ·
Thanks for that info. As far as casting, I like the OB full more than the short. The short seems like it would be better for quick 50 feet casts and the full OB is better for distance.

Can you explain what you mean by probing? I'm interested in the difference between the ob full intermediate and int tip as far as depth and action on the fly.
 
#27 ·
Can you explain what you mean by probing?
From my experience the OB full length strips back in in a more straight line than the Short. The short's tip sinks by itself or probes (I made that term up, I am sure there is a more technical term for it) down when allowed to "rest" in between strips, where the full outbound's whole head sinks at the same rate when rested. So the first 1-2' of a strip brings the Short back to a straight line, where the OB Full length is already there. I prefer my flies to present all the action, rather than my line which I just use for depth.
 
#32 ·
The OB regular head is dense enough that I think there is minimal hinging at the transition between floating and intermediate. I'd not worry about it.
I use the OB regular intermediate sink head in both the 5wt and 6wt and I notice no hinging. Not sure why that would be a problem with a shooting head anyway, since you're head is at most no farther than a inch our to past the tip of the rod. Any farther and your cast will fall apart.
 
#34 ·
A pile of good information in this thread. Justin, Stonefish, Cook, and several others have addressed many of the nuances which determine optimal line choice for beach fishing. A few factors to keep in mind (and they've already been implied in this thread): the slope gradient of your favorite beaches, the bottom substrate composition, the severity of the tidal influences, and how the fish might be behaving...

Justin astutely pointed out how the full intermediate can hook the beach a bunch...clearly an issue if the beach in question has a multitude of barnacle covered boulders in your casting sector and you've forgotten the stripping basket and the gradient is flat...but it sure does stay in pretty damn tight "straight line" contact with the fly over a sloped beach with moderate current...meaning better hookups because you can usually feel everything going on...

Other spots: tide might be ripping like a river and a longer head and/or floating running line make for easier mending if you're trying to swing your fly...but... if its a spot where the fish are constantly on the move...a short head and floating running line makes it awful easy to pick the whole damn mess up and change directions.

Largely out of laziness and limited budget, I've recently stuck with an Airflo 40+ Intermediate and a Rio Outbund Short full floater as my two beach lines on dedicated spools. I'm certain if I had more spools and more lines I would fish a wider array of conditions more effectively...

But for me currently, the 40+ Int with a 5-6 foot leader lets me send it out there and feel like I'm efficiently getting the fly down a bit, whilst maintaining a tight line (I'm sure the full Outbound intermediate behaves similarly or better) but I still hang bottom with the fly and/or head occasionally on a flatter gradient.

The Outbound Short coupled with a 8-9 foot leader takes care of my topwater activities and other scenarios with a sinking fly where I may fish a few strips then pick everything up and cast to a different spot, but in current I know I'm not getting down.

Then of course there are Polyleaders and other tips in 5, 10, and 14 foot lengths to further provide options. Stop by a local shop and talk with someone like Justin for a while. Those cats have played with everything out there and figured out some unique ways of going about things...
 
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