Carnage Paradrake SBS

Discussion in 'Fly Tying Step by Step' started by ScottP, May 27, 2013.

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    Figured I'd try the Carnage body on a drake. Wasn't too sure how it would work and looking at the results, I've got a ways to go to get a properly tapered body. This is the first attempt but hopefully, you get the idea; pretty raw but even so, it'll float and I'm going to try find out this week if it'll fish.

    hook - Dai Riki 125 #14
    thread - UTC 140 tan
    tail - elk hair
    body - .5mm foam
    wing post - Congo Hair white
    hackle - barred cream
    thorax - dubbing tan

    poke a hole in a strip of .5mm foam (1/2 hook gap width)

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    slide on needle (inserted in vise)

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    coat needle with Mucilin (or wax)

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    start thread on needle

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    clean and stack a few elk hair fibers

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    lay fibers on needle and tie in with a few wraps

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    trim butts, tie off thread and slide foam up against tail

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    brush on a little Super Glue

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    grab the tag end and spiral the foam up the needle

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    then slide the body off the needle; trim tag end

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    mash the hook barb, insert in vise and wrap thread to hook point

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    position body on hook, coat thread wraps and about 1/2" of foam with Super Glue

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    wrap body forward a few turns, tie off and trim

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    tie in a hank of Congo Hair and post up; then tie in hackle

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    apply some dubbing and dub thorax; return thread to position at base of post

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    start wrapping hackle from the top of the post down

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    let the hackle hang down; take 2 turns of thread at base of post, trapping hackle

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    half hitch x2 at hook eye, SHHAN, trim wing post and you're done

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    Need to work on body taper; wider turns to start, closer together to make it a bit thicker at the base - I think. A few less tail fibers would probably be in order, too; I'll play around a little. Don't know that I'd go much smaller than a #14.

    Regards,
    Scott
     
    Teenage Entomologist likes this.
  2. Stretching the foam, starting the initial wraps as wide as possible with lots of tension and very little overlap, then decreasing tension and increasing overlap created the taper I was looking for. Also switched to the Dai Riki 135 (scud hook) to get a little more weight on the underside.

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    Took it out for a test drive and it landed upright and floated like a champ, even during a downpour. Didn't catch anything on it (managed a very nice squawfish on a foam skwala) but I'm not sure there are any trout in the part of the stream I was fishing anyway.

    Regards,
    Scott
     
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    Probably going to miss the green drake hatch but I'll downsize it a bit for flavs; olive grizzly hackle's 2700 miles away so subbed dun grizzly.

    Regards,
    Scott
     
  4. Drakes using 1mm foam were even more fragile than the hoppers. After stumbling upon the heat-shrink tubing idea for hoppers, which probably wouldn't work well on a mayfly except maybe Hex or mutant Labrador monstrosities, I gave the Hareline tubing (standard size) a try for a Fall Drake. A bit crude, kinks to be worked out, but it'll fish; SBS to follow

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    btw, the dark wing made a huge difference for me on the days I was down in YNP; flat light made seeing anything a challenge, but the black showed up very well.


    Regards,
    Scott
     
  5. Insert pin/needle into vise (not sure what size it is, but it's very thin)

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    take some tubing and slide it on to the needle

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    trim tubing, leave a bit extended past the tip of the needle (makes it easier to grab)

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    start thread back where the tail will be tied in, then spiral wrap tubing to help anchor it to the pin, otherwise it just rotates

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    stack a few moose body hairs for the tail and tie them in; hackle fibers tend to suck up Super Glue (capillary action) and I'm not crazy about how that looks

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    trim butts and tie in ribbing

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    spread a little Super Glue and wrap 1mm foam strip

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    trim stub end of foam by tail, rib body; tie off rib and brush with a little Sally


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    finished body

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    Rest of the steps are the same


    Regards,
    Scott
     
  6. updated Carnage Green ParaDrake (using Swiss Straw underbody); tied here on a #10 Dai Riki 135 scud hook

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    rib omitted (debating whether it's necessary)
    Regards,
    Scott
     

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