Modified Carey Special
Hook: Size 12 Mustad 79580 or equivalent
Thread: Black 8/0
Underbody: Lead wire if desired or dubbing
Abdomen: Peacock herl
Beard: Small mottled feathers from the top
of a pheasant rump
Wing: Long brown fibers from the bottom
of the pheasant rump
Start the thread near the eye and bring it back to the bend covering the shank along the way
Now is the time to decide if you want to tie it weighted or not. In the interest of uniformity, I tied all of the swap flies unweighted. Read on if you're not using any weight; if you want a sinker, skip to the next paragraph. Choose any kind of dubbing and dub a smooth underbody that gets thicker in the midsection and tapers back down towards the eye. Wrap the thread back over the dubbing to the bend.
If you've already completed the last step, skip this one. Using lead (or unleaded wire), wrap a section of wire in the middle of the shank.Tie securely with the thread and coat with Flexament. Build up the thread next to the wire on both sides to make a smooth underbody. Bring the thread back to the bend.
Tie in six peacock herls, clip the ends, and wind the thread almost to the eye. Spin the herls into a rope (I like to do this three at a time) and wind forward to the thread being sure to completely cover the underbody. Tie off the herl rope and clip the ends.
Turn the fly upside down and tie in the beard. Be sure to impale your finger repeatedly on the hook during this step. I like to strip (or snip) off some of the fibers and tie them in instead of trying to use a whole feather.
Turn the fly back right-side-up and tie in the wing. Similar to the beard, I prefer to strip off some of the fibers and tie those in. Secure the wing with some thread wraps and then build a thread head and whip finish.
Apply the head cement and admire the bug.
Hook: Number 6.
Tail: A few fibres from a ringed-neck pheasant's rump feather.
Body: Ringed-neck pheasant tail fibers, deer hair or marmot fur.
Rib: Black linen thread.
Collar: Ring-necked pheasant rump feathers extending well past hook bend.
Originator: Colonel Carey.
A link to step by step instructions.
http://www.flyanglersonline.com/features/canada/can149.html
Great Canadian Flies,
West: The Carey Special
By Sheldon Seale / Glen Hales photos
There have been many great fly patterns developed in and for the Canadian west. The Carey Special is one of the best known and also one of the most versatile and adaptable. In the literature it is usually referred to as a wet fly or a nymph and occasionally as a steelhead fly (especially the Orange Carey Special). Yet, it isn't that well known to anglers, except in those regions of western Canada where it is a staple.
Hook: 3x long nymph or streamer, sizes 2-8.
Thread: Black 6/0.
Tail: Pheasant flank feather fibres (optional).
Rib: Copper wire or similar (optional).
Body: Peacock herl, dubbing or chenille (optionally weighted).
Hackle: Pheasant flank feather, tied back.
The pattern was developed about 1925 by a Dr. Lloyd A. Day of Quesnel, British Columbia. Its original name was The Monkey Faced Louise. However, a Colonel Thomas Carey popularized the pattern and the fly was eventually renamed in his honour. [Author's note: I have no way to be certain, but I wonder if the timing of the Carey Special's development is somehow related to the introduction of ringneck pheasant to North America from China. This would explain the use of pheasant flank for the collar rather than grouse or one of the various members of the duck family.]
Primarily thought of as a lake and pond fly, the Carey Special is at home in many kinds of water. Its adaptability allows it to suggest a wide range of fish foods. These include damselfly and dragonfly nymphs, cased caddis, small fishes and even crayfish. The pattern can be weighted or not and tied in a wide variety of materials.
The pattern is a straightforward tie as so many truly effective flies are.
Step 1 - Start your thread back of the hook eye and lay down a bed of thread to the bend. If you wish to weight your fly, wrap some lead wire (approximately the same diameter as the hook wire) over the middle half of the hook shank. Secure the lead in place with some extra wraps of thread. If you're putting on a tail, strip a dozen fibres from a pheasant flank feather and tie them in. The tail should be equal tothe length of the hook shank. Tie in your ribbing (optional with dubbing or chenille).
Step 2 - Select 6-8 long strands of peacock herl and tie in. Advance the thread to the original tie-in point. Twist the herl into a rope and wrap forward in touching turns to form the body. Secure with thread and trim excess herl. Wind copper wire forward, in open winds, to form the rib (optional with dubbing or chenille).
Step 3 - Tie in the pheasant flank feather by the tip. Trim the excess. Fold the fibres towards the rear of the hook and wrap 2 or 3 turns to form a collar. Secure with thread and trim excess hackle. If the hackle doesn't lay back sufficiently, secure it in place with a couple of thread wraps (see picture). Form a small neat head, tie off, clip the thread, and coat the head with lacquer.
The variations are endless. You can dub a body using your favourite material or use chenille, wool or floss. You can use different materials for the tail, including some red wool for a brighter fly. I recently came across dyed pheasant flank in small packages, so you can even match the collar to the body or not! All in all, an excellent pattern. A couple of my favourite variations include:
While the Carey Special is indeed at home in a pond or lake, it is a very useful fly in rivers-especially the slower and deeper portions. In streams and rivers, fish it as any wet fly or strip it in as you would a small streamer. In ponds, a slow, hand twist retrieve on a sinking line can prove deadly!
Try your own variations of the Carey Special. While most of the colours I have suggested above are intended for trout, I believe some of the brighter colours would be just the ticket for smallmouth bass. I'll have to give them a try this summer in some of the Haliburton Hills rivers I like to fish. ~ Sheldon Seale