Pontoon catastrophe!!

Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by james.jimenez, Mar 29, 2013.

  1. I agree, good thing this did not happen when you were on moving water in some rapids. I had a friend break the pin on his boat when we were floating the Big Hole a couple of years back. He was pushing off the beach and struck a rock. We had a spare oar with us but no spare pin. He was able to limp the last few miles to the take out. It was spring which made for some interesting moments.

    We came to a couple conclusions.
    1. A spare pin should be part of an emergancy kit along with a patch kit.
    2. Standard oar locks are still the best option for moving water.
  2. Wow--thanks for sharing your not-so-funny breakdown. I own a WM Kodiak and a couple of seasons ago came to a dead stop in shallow but fast-moving water on the Clearwater and put a good bend in my only set of aluminum oars (don't think they're the high end kind; came with the raft). I was floating perpendicular to shore getting ready for takeout (right below where the St. Regis comes in) and about put myself in the drink.

    Anyway, I like the solutions others have offered as a temp fix (good to know for future ref), but I wonder what good it is that you're being sent a new part? Doesn't the whole assembly have to be replaced, including where the hard rubber base meets the pontoon? Isn't that either a heat or sonic assembly? Why didn't they ask you to send the whole thing back? Just curious!
  3. Part should be here tomorrow, I will post an update as soon as I get the part and put it on.
  4. I have a lightweight pontoon boat with a similar design (fold up and down) with the oars and oar locks. While it works great for still water fishing, and I'm sure it would be fine for a vast majority of moving water, I am kind of partial to a traditional oar tower and oar lock. I'm thinking hard of getting a Water Master and putting a small, lightweight frame that can be taken off when on still waters and putting on while on the river. I much prefer Cataract Mini mags as opposed to the cheap aluminum oars that come with many boats.
  5. BDD, check with Ed Call. He had a small frame made for his WM Kodiak but I am not sure if he still has it.
  6. Good point.

    I've got a new Watermaster and have never thought about the pinned oars being a problem...until now. Has anyone thought about securing the pinned oars while going through heavy water and using a paddle? As far as temp. fix on the river, some heavy duty zip ties might work too.

  7. My .02. with the way a WM is designed I thik it would be hard to paddle through rapids verse rowing. In my experaince a WM with no rocker design are bit slower to respond to an oar stroke then a pontoon or raft with a kick or rocker design built in.

    Some might find this exciting, not me ....

  8. You are definitely a Magnet.
  9. What about a paddle as a backup? If You break an oar in the middle of a rapid might be better to have a paddle that is quick and accessible, then one pinned oar and a spare that has to be deployed/pinned in a moments notice. Then again one could just use the spare oar as a paddle until he is safely through.

    I'd still like to test a paddle on some mild rapids to see how responsive the watermaster really is while paddling. Also like the idea of having something to push off with.

    Just a thought
  10. Just a thought, but what about a breakdown kayak paddle as a spare/alternate in case of emergency? They come in different lengths, a paddle leash is pretty inexpensive, and you could use a velcro wrap to hold them together until needed.
  11. Part was recieved today. And it turned out to be a very easy part to replace!! I will be contacted NFO tomorrow though. I need to order a spare one of these for my emergency kit.
  12. Good to hear you got it fixed. Does the metal crossbar somehow retract so that you can put in the new pin without having to remove the hard rubber mount attached to the pontoon? Need to look into putting together an emergency kit myself for my WM...
  13. Easy fix, my Scadden Renegade has the same piece. My metal spindle pulled out of that plastic housing. Just replaced it 2 days ago. Order a whole new piece oar mount from them.
    1.)Remove the 2 outside screws.
    2.)Remove the black cap from each housing.
    3.)Take a needlenose plier to grab the plastic axel and pull to remove.
    4.)After you have removed the axel from the new piece. Take the new oar mounting spindle and insert onto original boat mount.
    5.)This is the tricky part, reinsert axel back into oar mount being careful that the 2 screw holes line back up. We put a basketball inflating nipple into the whole to help act as a guide for proper screw alignment.
    6.)Screw in screws and your back in business.

    I would also recommend ordering 2 extra oar mounts and take them apart for the the parts and pack them in your repair bag for on the river. It was a SOB trying to row a duck taped oar mount down the Madison last summer! Good luck.

  14. There actually wasn't a metal cross bar on mine. The only metal piece is the pin that the oar sits on when installed. The pins base is made of plastic which slips over a plastic crossbar that allows it to be mounted to the pontoon. I really enjoy the frameless feature of my pontoon but I will think twice before I float moving water with it because of this... At least till I get my emergency kit complete.
  15. Thank you for posting this James. I just ordered an extra our mount from Scadden. They don't sell just the pieces, they could only sell me the entire kit including the part that is already glued to the boat. I too like my frameless boat (Assault XX) but have been a little leary of the oar pin mounts. I should have my power stroke oars in a few days, and the extra torque those will provide will test the pin mounts much more than my cheap standard aluminum oars.
  16. I have yet to contact them to purchase a spare pin. Hope you don't mind the question, but what did the spare part cost?
  17. I do... Maybe trade bait for a simple lightweight frame for my 12' scadden?
  18. I was charged $20. As I mentioned, they would not simply sell me the pin itself.
  19. Actually, all a rocker design does for you is make you be able to swing boat faster (turn it left or right), but won't help you pull out of a pocket faster if you put your boat into the wrong line in a run. What helps you maneuver the boat is oar length vs the amount of weight you have in boat (how close to overloading the weight capacity of your boat). My 16' cataraft empty handled faster then my 8' pontoon did empty (empty I mean just rower in the boat). But the 8' toon was at max capacity with me on it versus the 16' which was WELL below max capacity. On the smaller boats, I've found that flatter hull works better then a full rocker. Why? Try digging the oars in on them. I've rowed a ton of full rocker vs flatter hulled pontoons, rafts, etc over the years. Those full rocker small boats will rock back and go a few inches per oar stroke (since part of your stroke is lost on the boat rocking backwards). Where the flatter hulled boats will be a little sluggish, but you gain more ground per oar stroke.

    Onto rowing in general, you should have your boat lined up on it's line well in advance anyways then correctional oar through.
  20. Jerry, my point exactly. When running white water I like a boat that does turn easily. Even after picking my line I like a boat that responds with a quick dip with an oar. Just my .02.

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