Repairing floating line-Advice?

Discussion in 'Fly Fishing Forum' started by OlyFlyguy, Dec 6, 2002.

  1. OlyFlyguy Member

    Posts: 107
    Olympia, WA.
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    I've found a few good nicks have developed in my floating line near the thicker head section and though they're not really deep I worry that they could worsen or part under the weight of a hog.

    Anyone have any suggestions on whether/how I can do some repair? Superglue? Some other epoxy or sealer?

    Tight Lines (I hope)!

    :HMMM
  2. Old Man Just an Old Man

    Posts: 21,753
    Dillon, Mt
    Ratings: +1,706 / 0
    What do I know---I'm just an old man

    If it's a name brand take it back to where you got it from. The line manufactures usually stand behind their warranty. I had the same thing happen to my line and I took it back to where I bought it and they replaced it.

    Jim
  3. Randy Knapp Active Member

    Posts: 1,132
    Warm Springs, Virginia, USA.
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    Pliobond works well.

    Randy
  4. IveofIone Guest

    Posts: 0
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    The first time out with a brand new SA line this yearI stepped on it with a wader cleat and put a bad nick in it. It was right where the line spends most of the time in the guides while casting, really discouraging.I was at Kelly Creek at the time so when I got home I tried this: Stretch the line slightly between 2 points, I used my rod wrapping cradle and some tape to hold the line in place. Mix some aquaseal with enough cotol to make a paste that can be dabbed on with a bodkin or a toothpick and apply sparingly to the damaged area. Done carefully the repair will hardly be noticeable and unless there is damage to the core no loss of strength will result. I caught several hundred fish on that line this summer and the patch still looks fresh and strong. Good luck , Ive
  5. Bob Triggs Your Preferred Olympic Peninsula Fly Fishing Guide

    Posts: 4,020
    Olympic Peninsula
    Ratings: +685 / 0
    A few things come to mind. Firstly, it's really not fair to expect a fly shop or manufacturer to replace or refund for a line you damaged, at least I don't think it is.Not unless they have an unconditional warranty to that effect.

    For a surface damaged line I have used shrink tubing.For a small nicked area I would use a length of shrink tubing long enough to span the repaired area by 1/2 to 1 inch in length.Slip it on the line and heat it very carefully- very, very carefully! Just enough to get it snugged on. Then work a very tiny amount of waterproof super glue,( I like "Fishin'-Glue", available almost everywhere and cheap at walmart etc.), Just enough to bleed into the ends of the tubing on the line. You have to do this after applying the shrink heat and not before. Heat melts the glue.You might prep the repair area prior to the work with a small damp wipe or two of isopropyl rubbing alcohol- nothing stronger than that, and let that evaporate. This may provide a better bond for the repair. It's really a very clean and quick repair. If you do this right it will run through the guides better than anything else.And it won't take any time at all.

    If it's possible that you have gotten all the way through the coating of the line and there's any slim chance at all that you have even touched the braided core of the line in the least, then you need a more advanced repair. Cut out the damaged section of line completely, by severing the line in two cleanly at the damaged area. Try not to get your tears and buggers all over the area you are trying to repair, and try to do this sober.Valium may be of some help.Next you carefully peel away the flyline coating from the remaining adjacent severed ends of flyline, revealing a foot or so of braided core on each piece.Carefuly tie a blood knot in the exposed ends of braided core, keeping the ends of still coated flyline as close together in the repair as possible. I have seen this done so closely that the coated ends were actually almost butted together and the knot was perfectly smoothe and snug.So were talking about a blood-knot in level braided line, maybe five turns each tag at most.Use a small dab of "Aquaseal" on the blood knot and exposed braided core and let that get on the fly line coating where it joins the braided core as well, perhaps an eighth of an inch or so.Make sure this is just enough to coat the braided material and does not create a lump, but a smoothe replacement of the lost fly line coating material's diameter Let the "Aquaseal" dry overnight,and do not use the "Cotol" hardener as this makes the repair too rigid.Then go ahead and do the shrink tube repair as outlined above. This should last forever or until you spend another $115.oo on a flyline.

    I have seen versions of this repair effected with Loon's "Sun-Set" wader repair material, which sets in ultraviolet light or sunlight. And this is an on-the-water-repair, to keep you fishing, that you would later improve at the lodge or camp or at home, with the better more lasting repairs.I find that Aquaseal is a better repair material than Pliobond, lasting longer, more supple and sticky, with more "body" and it has less solvents, which I suspect damage the braid material over time.

    Another lasting repair is to cut the line at the damaged area and then make up two braided loops out of the exposed ends of braid, maybe needing eight inches of exposed material to do this at each end.I like two speedy nail knots at the back of each loop where the line end terminates in the core, maybe 1/4 inch from the end.This won't work well in lines with braid under 30 pounds test.You could also just cut the line clean and slip on premade braided loops, using the droplet of Superglue at the shrink connector or two speedy nail knots as outlined, to keep the connector from slipping. Don't slather the braided connectors that slip over the line, with glue or goo, or you will lose the tightening effect of the braid on the flyline under tension.So with these repairs you end up with a loop connection. You could do this but I don't like it much for long term use. It's annoying and eventually you have to repair it again.Especially if it's close to the rod tip or handling end of the line.If it's close enough you might try converting the line to a home-made interchangealble tip system with loops.Maybe you would lose a few feet of line to get the best location on the line for what you intend to do.That would depend on allot of things. This is one of the great drawbacks to cleated wader boots- they will cut off a flyline easily.It's also due to being sloppy in line handling and letting the stuff get where it can be cut off to begin with.That's how I got good at repairing these things....
  6. OlyFlyguy Member

    Posts: 107
    Olympia, WA.
    Ratings: +0 / 0
    Thanks All for the excellent suggestions and details on how to do the repair. This is the level of info it would ordinarily take me many hours to pin down on my own, or not without lots of nagging guys at my local flyshop, so I truly appreciate it.

    As for the nick, it's just on the outer coating, so the fix should be easy. And, it was my fault--yanked too hard on the like when it wrapped around a sharp rock, I suspect. I need to be more conscious of how I treat my gear--be good to it and it'll be good to you is the right motto.

    Thanks again.
  7. Denny Active Member

    Posts: 4,048
    Seattle, WA, USA.
    Ratings: +45 / 0
    Here are some thoughts and anothe consideration.

    The nicks in the outer coating should not affect the strength of the line (if the core isn't damaged, you're ok). However, water will get in to the core of the line, and if it's dacron, it could get 'water-logged' in a sense, and not float as well as new.

    The other thing to do is ask Santa for a new line for Christmas, and treat this line as your practice line and your backup line. A lot of folks don't spend enough time practicing their casting, in my opinion. Casting on non-water surfaces (i.e. grass, etc.) can be tough on a line, and that's where this line could serve you well.

    And, another thought. You can cut the line back, say, twenty feet from the front, put a loop in the remaining portion, and buy a shooting head or two and make a looped sink tip line out of it. Save the cut portion, and that could be the floating tip of your sink tip set up that can act as the backup to the new floating line Santa gave you.

    Just another consideration, and just making lemonade out of lemons! :THUMBSUP
  8. alpinetrout Banned or Parked

    Posts: 3,897
    Hiding in your closet
    Ratings: +74 / 0
    Make sure the line is extremely dry before you perform the repair. You don't want to trap moisture in the core.
  9. Denny Active Member

    Posts: 4,048
    Seattle, WA, USA.
    Ratings: +45 / 0
    Don't repair it; you're adding weight to a floating line, going the opposite direction of the concept of a floating line.

    Have Santa get you a new line for Christmas. One of the beauties of fly fishing; Santa knows you always "need" something!

    If you repair it, and it doesn't perform as well as before, just remember my warning . . . :LOVEIT :THUMBSUP
  10. Old Man Just an Old Man

    Posts: 21,753
    Dillon, Mt
    Ratings: +1,706 / 0
    What do I know---I'm just an old man

    I agree with Richard on this one but I wouldn't wait on Santa to get you one as that old SOB has never bought me anything that I have asked for. So I go out and buy it my self.

    Jim