RIO Outbound Short vs. Regular

Discussion in 'Saltwater' started by Ybsong, Sep 14, 2013.

  1. Time for me to upgrade to RIO Outbound. My Cortland Clear Camo is driving me crazy. I thought getting a super nice striping basket would solve the tangled running lines, but alas. That line is gummier than a Swedish Fish left in a hot car. I know fly lines have been discussed many times before, and I know the RIO Outbound lines has it's fans, and those who think it's over rated. But I have a very specific question that I didn't see addressed in the archives.

    Was doing some research and it looks like the Outbound Regular doesn't have a full intermediate version. Rather it integrates a 37.5' of intermediate with a floating running line. The Short also has a float/intermediate integrated version, but also has a full intermediate model with a 30' head. Given I'm almost always going to fish this line with a stripping basket, I'm partial to the full intermediate to avoid the "bend" that results from the junction of the floating and intermediate lines while in the water. Both lines have clear heads which is pretty cool. Curious on your thoughts as to whether there are any other important distinctions I should be thinking about between the Regular and Short Outbounds.
  2. I own the clear intermediate short line and it is nice but I recently cast the long version of this line with the floater running line and clear head. I liked it also, and for different reasons.

    The head on the short is so compact it always takes a while for me to get use to it. It is good for the intended use. Minimal false casts. Just a short cast to get the head out of the water and load it, then ideally, one false cast and you are fishing. I am a slop at casting and I have not figured out how to cast this line beyond 70' or so. I have the head out (35' I think) and I understand that is the time to make your forward cast. Well, I never shoot more than another 30-40 feet. I have not measured, but there is always line turns left on my spool.

    The OB Long line felt much more comfortable to cast for the short period I used it. I would prefer the intermediate running line over the floating. Although the floating was nice to handle.

    I recall casting a SA intermediate line once. It was not clear but a milky color if I remember correct. It was easy to cast but then again this was on a Winston rod. I think this was marketed as a Striper line. Worth consideration. I think it may have had a slower sink rate also.

    My Outbound is a bit fast sinking for shallow flats but awesome when I fish from a boat.

    All this said & I am sure another member will clear up or correct my ramblings.
    Ybsong likes this.
  3. Been fishing an outbound intermediate with floating running line this year for my 8wt. I actually intended to buy an outbound short--I stopped at avid angler, asked for an outbound short, bought it, spooled it up, fished it, then looked a little closer at the box weeks later and discovered it was just the outbound. However, I've loved it--I find that it loads fast and when I'm in a groove, I can get the line out with 2-3 false casts. As for the integrated intermediate/floating, I couldn't imagine using a full intermediate line from the beach, especially during lower tides or shallower water. It's pretty routine to be close to bottom when the line gets 20' or so away--I think if your full cast was sinking that would happen a lot sooner and would snag on the bottom all the time. Would love to hear other thoughts on this. Have not noticed the "bend" thing you mentioned at the junction as well. Just picked up a short for my 6wt which I plan to use tomorrow--interested to see if I feel a major difference.
  4. And just wanted to make sure it didn't sound like I was knocking avid angler--love that shop and everyone who works there have been incredibly helpful! I just should've been paying more attention.
  5. I have the short on my 6 weight in both full floater and floating with 15' integrated intermediate tip. I throw a 7' intermediate poly leader on both. The tip version gets down quick enough, that's 22' of intermediate line, makes the full intermediate kind of unnecessary, and I have the option of throwing a faster sinking poly on it if I'm fishing a deeper section of beach. I've noticed no hinging at the floating/intermediate junction. I've cast the older, longer outbound on other rods. The longer outbound casts more like a flyline whereas the short is a shooting head and needs to be treated as such.
  6. Full intermediate sucks if you forget your stripping basket or want to use the line in rivers. The OB regular head is dense enough that I think there is minimal hinging at the transition between floating and intermediate. I'd not worry about it.
  7. Great stuff guys. I already fish the RIO Outbound Regular 6wt float line for my primary SRC line and love it. You've made me feel better about not worrying about the float/intermediate version for my 8wt. RIO Outbound Regular sounds the way to go. I'll be targeting Coho mostly with this line, so I'll be stripping fast, which will also minimize any bend in the line. I've forgotten my stripping basket before and hope to never make that mistake again. One particular day, I lost two beautiful fish as they turned my slack line into a tangled mess of spaghetti. Tromping and tripping over my line didn't help either. If there's any virtue to my Cortland Camo Clear Intermediate is that it never broke after countless mashing on barnacle and oyster covered beaches.
    Jeff Dodd likes this.
  8. While we're talking about Rio OutBound. Has anyone out there been suggestful in welding new loops on the running line?
  9. I don’t know about the outbound but I have used the SA Mastery Streamer Express Intermediate Clear Tip for several years now. It’s a 30’ clear tip with an intermediate running line; this is my go to line for sure. Before that I used the full intermediate and hated it because of it was too sticky and felt I didn’t have enough control when fishing. The Streamer Express will cast itself if you let it and virtually no tangles. I will admit I primarily fish from a boat and usually no deeper than 15’ of water.
    As for welding a loop in the running line it seems to me you would want an integrated running line, the loop will only hinder your retrieve as its pulled through your guides.
  10. Really? I'd like to meet your line.

    Mine is the same SA line & the running line tangles to beat the band. It did better fishing summer trout due to the warm weather I'm thinking. Puget sound in Fall/Spring with our cold saltwater & lower air temps make it a tough handling line IMO. That 250 grain head shoots well on my salty 6, have to admit that.

    Don Freeman likes this.
  11. I believe the Outbound has a monofilament core, which is difficult to weld with out weakening the core. Make your own loop by doubling your line and securing with a nail knot or two . Coat with UV glue to secure it and create a taper so it goes through your guides smoothly.
  12. You can get the Outbound in either cold water or tropical versions. Might help.
  13. Have use the Outbound regular & a older Airflo 40+ ridge/striper in coldwater types, the running lines both work better than the SA streamer express here IMO.

    Stonefish likes this.
  14. I would love to see a picture of this if you have one
  15. I don't KNOW for sure myself, but I have seen many posts stating that upon conversation with RIO reps, the ONLY difference between the cold and tropical versions is the package.

    FWIW - I have the regular in floating and intermediate and didn't like either one very much. I do however like the short version. Think it's a great beach line for 1 (or two at most) back cast and shoot. Also, check out the Reds video touting the floating version (along with the Ambush) for use as a streamer line, along with 10' poly tips. I'm currently throwing it at SMB.
  16. not true. there is a difference between the coldwater and tropical, but the coldwater and the freshwater outbound shorts are identical.
  17. Got it. I think yours was one of the posts I'd seen
  18. IMG_0580.JPG

    I grabbed these at random. The line on the right and the floater were done with backing, the others with fluoro. The backing is easier to use, as it has less memory. It's simple to tie using a nail knot tool, get one at your local shop and ask them to show how to make the loop. If they don't use that system, go to PSFlyCo. They showed me to use the tool rather than a chunk of tubing. As you can see, I favor a longer loop, as I've found it closes down and lies flatter, but you'll find more guys prefer a small loop.

    I also use a loop to loop to attach lines to backing, just make a loop in the backing long enough to fit over your spool, and put a loop at the back end of the line. On a small (trout sized) line one knot is enough, with 4-5 wraps. For big stuff, I'll go to two knots with 6 wraps, glue the space in the middle together with zap a gap, then cover with UV knot material. Obviously, you need a loop in the backing, either a bimini, or go back to your nail knot tool, double line and 2 knots for heavy weight use.

    Again, you might want to find someone who does this often to walk you through it.
  19. Thanks for this--very helpful, and I'll give it a shot. Another question that I'm sure someone can help with: I'm going to retire my 6wt rio versitip line. The running line is pretty beat up and I can't say I love the way it casts. I'm thinking about going to a full floater (perhaps the rio steelhead/salmon line) then using polyleaders (fishing single handed). Can I use the versitip tips as my sink tips or is the 15' too long or have the wrong profile? Or, could they be cut shorter and rigged with the loops described by Don. Just thinking of ways to save money because the tips are in really good shape--anyone used these in any way beyond their intended use?
  20. Welding loops on the running line, so you want a loop to use to connect to your backing?

    Or do you want a loop at the end of the head for connecting your leader. If it is the head, you can use the method Don posted or use braided mono to make your own loops and attach using a nail knot. This uses the chinese finger trap method.
    Bagman and Jeff Dodd like this.

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