Tying Weedless for Bass

Discussion in 'Warm Water Species' started by Randall Clark, Apr 9, 2013.

  1. I'm curious as to how you folks tie your weedless flies for Bass? I've been tying in a double mono (usually 20-30 lb) I don't really like it. It's perfectly weedless, but my hookup rate is generally on the low side. Anyone use various wire type weedless setups? what works, what doesn't?

  2. The guitar weed guards work very well. This link helped a ton when trying to figure it out. http://www.danblanton.com/blog/jay-spencers-floating-dragon-fly-nymph-tying-instructions/

    At $1 per string, a couple can be bought for the correct diameter. Use caution when cutting those things though!!

    I use this method almost exclusively now.​
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  3. look at this thread, http://www.washingtonflyfishing.com...avorite-subsurface-bass-patterns.86411/page-3

    in it patrick shows some hooks he got at fred meyer. i got some of these a couple weeks ago and their not bad at all. ill post some pics later of some estaz worms i tied on them. they come with a wire guard wrapped on the hook with thin wire. i just cut off/unwrap the wire and take the weed guard off and then tie it back in when needed. and they can be bent easily to however you need.
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  4. Randall Clark and Patrick Gould like this.
  5. Yeah, that's kind of along the lines I was thinking.
  6. I just ordered up some of those like what Patrick has, I'll keep you posted. Now just need to squeeze in a little bass fishing with everything else...

    plus I'll probably try out some of those guitar string ones. I think that might be the ticket for jetty fishing when tied on saltwater hooks.
  7. The problem I have with weedless patterns is that some other part of the tackle still hangs up. Be it a knot or the fly line. The only "weedless" system that seems to work for me (subsurface) is using weight on the hook shank so the hook spear rides up.

    Even then I still get crap on knots and the like.

    When it comes to surface poppers, I've had trouble with the weed guard becoming a fish guard and I've had to cut off the weed guard to hook the fish.

    The style of weedguard Freestone posted is the only one that kind'a works for me. I've never had much luck using the heavy mono bit.

    All in all, I'm not a fan of weed guards so most of my warmwater patterns do not include them. If I can't tie the pattern so the hook spear rides up, I put up with the bug hanging up from time to time. Like I've said, normally there's crap on the hook eye and knot anyway so a weed guard doesn't do me much good.
  8. I'm with Gene on not using weedguards. I used to use them all the time, but not much any more.
    I generally fish bass out of my SFC and the water I fish isn't incredibly deep. If I get hung up, most of the time I can kick over and easily retrieve the fly.
    I lose a few flies occasionally on deeper water dock beams etc, but not enough to make me wish I had weedguards on all my bass flies.
  9. you even forgo the weedguard when fishing really heavy cover? like small pockets within a bunch of lily pads? That's where I've caught some of the largest fish over the last several years using my spinning rod, but I'm looking for better ways to target those same fish with a fly instead.
  10. With spin gear, you normally tie the primarily line to the lure... that's the only knot. Also, mono (or f-carbon) slides easily through Lilly pads and the like without hanging up. The same can not be said for a much thicker fly line with leader and possible tippet knots.

    I've found that if a bass is going to hit a popper within a specific opening in heavy cover, it does so within a few seconds that the popper hits the water. Also, if I'm careful, I've learned to cast a popper or "lure" on top of Lilly pads and slowly slide them off without hanging up with a non weedless pattern.

    If you have no problem with knots and the like hanging up on vegetation and your weedless set up works for you, by all means, stay with the program.

    They just don't to seem to have much of an advantage for me personally.
  11. I've found the single mono guards to be pretty worthless in my opinion. After fishing a pattern for awhile, they tend to get off center and you'll still snag up. The double mono guard that Big E showed in the thread link may work better, but I haven't tried that.
    Another thing to consider when fish pads with topwater is your tippet strength. Bass aren't leader shy so you don't need to use whimpy trout tippets.
    If I snag a pad leaf, I just point my rod at the bug and pull. Generally the bug hook will tear the pad and you won't snap off. If you do, no big deal because your bug is going to float anyway making for easy retrieval.
    I'll also left my topwater sit for up to a couple of minutes before twitching it. The take is going to happen before the fly ever gets a chance to snag up.
  12. yeah, I'm usually using 12lb maxima.

  13. I need to try some of those.... I was using Gamakatsu worm hooks for poppers before fly anglers discovered the hook. The new hooks probably cost a fortune but I'll buy some just the same.

    Someday I may fish somewhere that I will need a weedless popper.
  14. Nice hooks but for $1.50 to $2.00 per, I'll pass.
    I'd think you could fashion the same thing yourself if you truly needed weedless.
    Get some dropshot or bass fly tying hooks, some wire you use for haywire twists when fishing for toothy critters and and pair of needlenose pliers.
  15. I've certainly thought about that Stonefish. The Gamakatsu's do cost a pretty penny. I don't tie poppers by the dozens, so that kinda' keeps it doable for me. The weed guard is made of some kind of spring steel; lots of flexibility that allows it to snap back to its original shape without bending. I've heard that piano wire would work....?
  16. Check out the hooks the have a Fred Meyer. I think they're crystal river brand. I'd like to hear how they compare to the high end gamakatsus.

    The thing I like about the wire style guards is that they work as brush/stick guards too. (the trick is getting them set so they don't act as Bass guards like Gene suggests)
  17. This is what I mentioned in my last post about making your own weedless guards.

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  18. when using the wire as a weed guard, make sure you measure the length to the bend behind the barb. this will allow the guard to have the needed sweep to protect the hook point.

    the guards do work well. hook-ups are only an issue when one becomes overly anxious on the hook set, 'cause it damn hard not to set immediately when the blow-up happens! be a bit patient and the rewards will come.

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