Discussion in 'Watercraft' started by james.jimenez, Mar 29, 2013.
Figure eight crossover rope wraps to limp to the end.
Just recieved and email from Derek, NFO, with a tracking number!!!!!! Customer service in the past has been a pain in my @SS... So far this time has been super smooth!!
The same thing happened to me last spring on my challenger but I had already had the boat for a year and used it quite heavily. I just started out on a lake and it broke; 5 hours from home and I was pissed. Not much you can do at the time and I didn't have fins. I used web straps to pin the oar down and that worked fine until the wind whipped up one day. Anyway, Dave said he found it odd and never had one break before (hmmm?). He sent me a replacement no problem but I got a second one in case I ever ran into this problem again I would at least have a spare. This is the kind of thing that would make one of those 3D printers I keep reading about seem worth it. Anyway, the point of my post is to get a spare as well.
Piece of cake to fix to get out.
Not sure of what you have to do to feel safe in a tight situation, which is the only time shit should happen like with Luke, Jesse was just asleep at the wheel coming out of a deep pool, not on a friggen lake where there is no pressure.
I thought about getting the heavy duty oars for my WM for wilderness float trips. Then I thought about how that might increase the likelihood of catastrophic pin or pin-patch failure. So I decided to stick with the standard oars and hope for the best should I break one in the middle of a tricky rapid.
I agree, good thing this did not happen when you were on moving water in some rapids. I had a friend break the pin on his boat when we were floating the Big Hole a couple of years back. He was pushing off the beach and struck a rock. We had a spare oar with us but no spare pin. He was able to limp the last few miles to the take out. It was spring which made for some interesting moments.
We came to a couple conclusions.
1. A spare pin should be part of an emergancy kit along with a patch kit.
2. Standard oar locks are still the best option for moving water.
Wow--thanks for sharing your not-so-funny breakdown. I own a WM Kodiak and a couple of seasons ago came to a dead stop in shallow but fast-moving water on the Clearwater and put a good bend in my only set of aluminum oars (don't think they're the high end kind; came with the raft). I was floating perpendicular to shore getting ready for takeout (right below where the St. Regis comes in) and about put myself in the drink.
Anyway, I like the solutions others have offered as a temp fix (good to know for future ref), but I wonder what good it is that you're being sent a new part? Doesn't the whole assembly have to be replaced, including where the hard rubber base meets the pontoon? Isn't that either a heat or sonic assembly? Why didn't they ask you to send the whole thing back? Just curious!
Part should be here tomorrow, I will post an update as soon as I get the part and put it on.
I have a lightweight pontoon boat with a similar design (fold up and down) with the oars and oar locks. While it works great for still water fishing, and I'm sure it would be fine for a vast majority of moving water, I am kind of partial to a traditional oar tower and oar lock. I'm thinking hard of getting a Water Master and putting a small, lightweight frame that can be taken off when on still waters and putting on while on the river. I much prefer Cataract Mini mags as opposed to the cheap aluminum oars that come with many boats.
BDD, check with Ed Call. He had a small frame made for his WM Kodiak but I am not sure if he still has it.
I've got a new Watermaster and have never thought about the pinned oars being a problem...until now. Has anyone thought about securing the pinned oars while going through heavy water and using a paddle? As far as temp. fix on the river, some heavy duty zip ties might work too.
My .02. with the way a WM is designed I thik it would be hard to paddle through rapids verse rowing. In my experaince a WM with no rocker design are bit slower to respond to an oar stroke then a pontoon or raft with a kick or rocker design built in.
Some might find this exciting, not me ....
You are definitely a Magnet.
What about a paddle as a backup? If You break an oar in the middle of a rapid might be better to have a paddle that is quick and accessible, then one pinned oar and a spare that has to be deployed/pinned in a moments notice. Then again one could just use the spare oar as a paddle until he is safely through.
I'd still like to test a paddle on some mild rapids to see how responsive the watermaster really is while paddling. Also like the idea of having something to push off with.
Just a thought
Just a thought, but what about a breakdown kayak paddle as a spare/alternate in case of emergency? They come in different lengths, a paddle leash is pretty inexpensive, and you could use a velcro wrap to hold them together until needed.