Discussion in 'Fly Fishing Forum' started by LCnSac, Aug 18, 2014.
And you rode your horse to the river!
Unless something odd happens, I change the tapered leader to my fly line about once a year... if that. As Tim mentioned, your primary leader lasts a long time when you simply add tippet material to replace the used tip section of the tapered leader.
I thought that's what everyone did ???
That's what I do if the general leader construction is appropriate. I use blood knots for the tippet. Double surgeons seem to break easily in my hands.
With a poly leader you only need to replace a couple of feet of tippet once in awhile. I haven't used them long enough to know how long they last, but probably a couple of years easily. They don't always cast well but I sure like the ease of use and flexibility in quick changes.
Do you use tippet rings? The time I tried a polyleader I kept having to strip coating to expose more mono. That thing got really short! I have leader OCD, however.
I have tried all of the above and always come back to my life time supply of leader links!
Couple ways for me.
My sink tip line and tips for speys I use an albright, however I use loops on all my other lines.
I keep going back to my old school ways. I tried the loops but didn't like them for the reasons people cite -- they collect detritus, hang on the tip top eye, and the hinge impedes the energy transfer of the cast. The loops make the process easier especially for those folks who have problems with knots, but I'm not convinced that in this case "New and Improved" is anything but "New" and it's obviously not even that any more.
I nail knot (I used to use a paper clip but graduated to that great little nail knot tool) an 18" piece of 40lb Maxima to the fly line, coat it with any of the many products out there (years ago I used Aqua Seal), and then tie my leaders (I build my own using blood knots) to the butt section Maxima. I don't change leaders very often. Like others I just rebuild them. I have different leaders on different reels for the various line weights.
I think loop to loop connections are the worst thing ever created.... I use them cause i am lazy
nail knot (using tie-fast takes about 30 seconds) i use a leader w/ a similar flex in the butt as the fly line (i like the 12' trouthunter finesse for 3-6wt) no redundant crap on the leader. will often last a whole year just replacing tippet, and eventually adding a length of 3 or 4X when i've cut back a bit. that leaves 2 blood knots on the leader at the end of the year. rio is coming out with a one piece line/leader this year, 90 bucks and you'll never change a leader again. just un-spool the line, and throw it out. tie a new backing knot, reel it up and be done. for 2015, ross reels will have a 1 piece reel/backing/line/leader combo. your choice of an elk hair caddis, or parachute adams pre-tied on the end. 500 bucks. only comes in gold anodized. sadly, you'll still have to atttach reel to rod at least once.
For steelhead and salmon fishing I use loop to to loop. I add a small heavy mono section at the end of the fly line (to keep the leader from digging into the factory loop) and then loop on the leader. I do not use tapered leaders for steel or salmon, so its straight mono or fluoro (10#-15# for the most part).
Trout on small stream, I nail not home built leaders. Mono fro dry work, fluorocarbon for wet work.
After I read this again, it got me thinking(I know I shouldn't do this) on what I used when I first started out in this sport. It was a little plastic thingy that was about 3/4 of a inch long. You inserted your fly line in one end and tied a knot in it and then you inserted in the other end you heavy leader and tied a knot in it. You then pulled on both lines to set the lines in the thingy. It was called a leader to line connection. I believe it was put out by Wright and McGill. It was something I used about 45 years ago. You can still find some now and then. They seemed to work for me.
I just remembered where I saw some. On my next trip I make to the big city(Butte) I'm going to get some to use on my 3wt's. See what thinking does for me.
I have some, used them when I first started (learned about them from my dad) but haven't used them for a while. They definitely make it easy.
I've used both the loop-to-loop and the nail knot method, and the inbetween (where the line doesn't have a factory loop) option of a short (~2-3") length of heavy mono nail knotted on, with a perfection loop tied into it...and for my fishing, the factory welded loop (on a quality line where it holds up) can't be beat. The little knotsense bulge, for me, hangs up in guides just as often as a new loop-to-loop connection, and after the loop on the fly line has a chance to set (a month or so of fishing), that connection actually goes through the guides better.
That being said, I tend to fish in a way that sees me changing leaders quite often, from a greased furled mono leader for dries, emergers, and high-water-column presentations, to an Ex. Super Fast sinking poly leader for streamers (and occasionally an extruded knotless fluoro leader if I'm forced to dredge a nymph). I may change my leader (everything from the fly line down) a dozen times in a given day if I'm seeing occasional risers, but taking more fish on streamers, and for this, the loop-to-loop can't be beat.
I use loop to loop. Pretty much the only time the loop ever passes through the rod tip is when I'm first stripping out the line and when I'm breaking the rod down at the end of the day. If i've got a a fish on, by the time I'm getting near the loop to loop connection I just grab the leader anyhow.
I guess you stillwater jokers might have crazy long leaders so it may come in to play on a regular basis.